Sew Method, Flat felled seam, a variation on the popular seam. Done on a home sewing machine, now special foot or stitches required.
This is a variation on the flat felled seam I developed years ago, when making cargo shorts, I used the traditional method of making a flat felled of cutting one of the seam allowances and then folding over, then topstitching.
I had for many years, and old sewing machine, from 1963, an off-brand German machine, no decorative stitches, no buttonhole features, just straight and zigzag stitches, so I had to develop many workarounds on it, for doing what I wanted to do.
Was not happy with the finish on the right side of the garment, so bumped a few brain cells together and came up with this.
It is kinda like doing a welt or a flat piping method, you cut an extra strip of fabric, same if you want it to look like a retail garment or a different color or fabric to add some additional extra design and style to your build.
You need to cut the extra strip twice the seam allowance and the width of the folded over seam you want to show. On this example, I wanted a 1/2″ contrast strip. So 1/2″ plus 5/8″ seam allowances times 2, came out to 2.25 inches in width.
Then to do construction, make a center line on the strip and position on one side of garment fabric, right side together. And sew done the center line.
Then press the seam, then fold over the strip lining up the raw edges, then press,
Next step is to take other pices of garment fabric and line up raw edges, right sides together.
Now sew construction seam, as usual, this example is a 5/8″ seam allowance,
Open up the garment and press the seams, then on the wrong side of the garment, fold over the seam allowances toward the area that the strip of fabric is. and then flip over and top stitch.
Mark a center line in your strip of fabric, and sew on one of the garment fabric pieces.