My goto method for most of my sport/activewear sewing.

My goto method for most of my sport/activewear sewing.

I have a Singer 14T968DC serger/coverstich combo and  Brother CE1100 (inexpensive Walmart sewing machine 100 stitch).

 

And a Singer Heavy Duty CG590  never use for sportswear/activewear, this machine has a deep-rooted dislike for sport or knit fabrics.

 

The serger/coverstitch combo does all the 2, 3 and 4 thread serge stitches and the coverstich does 2 or 3 thread.  

 

Thoughts and opinions:

 

Don’t like flatlock for activewear, tried it many times, does not look that good and not as strong as other stitches.  

 

I have done the 3 and 4 thread serge stitches, from 3mm to 6mm wide and from short stitch length to long stitch lenght.  

 

If going to topstitch or coverstich over the seger seams, I go with 3 thread with 3 setting length (on click longer then default).  A bit less thread/bulk.

 

If not topstitch or coverstitch, then I go with the 4 thread serger seam, on my machine they call in the 4 thread mock safety stretch stitch.  And go with default stitch length.

 

This is my personal preference here, I do not like the reverse coverstich look on a garment, not going to use it.  If you want to use it go ahead, be proud and do it, it is just not the look I like.

 

I make menswear so I use heavier weight sport fabric, and use bulky/wooly nylon in both the looper and needles on serger, and both bobbin and thread on sewing machine, I use a size 14 or 16 needles in serger and sewing machine, works fine, just have to sew a bit slower so the needles do not shread the thread.

 

If I am short of time, I use the serger and sewing machine, first serger with 3 thread stitch for construction, then top stitch with the sewing machine I use the triple straight stretch stitch (the two steps forward, then one step back), For different looks, will use different threads for topstitching.  Moderate strength seams in end garment.

 

If a bit more time, I use the serger and sewing machine, first serger with 3 thread stitch for construction, then covert over to coverstich, and use a 2 thread coverstich to topstitch.  For different looks, will use different threads for topstitching. Moderate to strong strength seams in end garment.

 

My preferred method is to use the triple straight stretch stitch (the two steps forward, then one step back) for construction seam allowances press to one side, then top stitch over seam allowances side with the sewing machine I use the triple straight stretch stitch (the two steps forward, then one step back), For different looks, will use different threads for topstitching.  Strong to very strong strength seams in end garment.

 

Warning the triple straight stretch stitch, you can not sew fast with this stitch, I would say you have to stay at least less than 50 of top speed

 

When I topstitch, I use a single needle and do one or two rows, I do not generally like using the twin needle for topstitching.  For me, topstitching lays flatter with single needle vs twin needle.

My goto method for most of my sport/activewear sewing.
My goto method for most of my sport/activewear sewing.

 

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